PatternReview.com 2013 Jean Contest entry

Update: the contest is now over and I won second place, loosing to the first place ONLY by 4 votes

When I signed up for PatternReview.com’s 2013 Jean Contest it took me about 20 seconds to figure out what kind of jeans I was going to sew.

I’ve always loved 70’ fashion, especially bellbottom jeans and pants. So shopping I went, and got me some pre-washed dark blue 100% cotton denim.

I used my pant sloper as a base for this jean pattern. For the first muslin I only drafted out new legs and crotch seams. In the first fitting I marked on the muslin new waist height, back yoke and pockets, and front pockets. I made a second muslin too, to make sure that all the fit issues and pattern changes I marked in the first fitting, worked.

Since I have a very straight body, I tried to make sure that all the design features enhance some parts of my body - front pockets should make my hips seem wider, back pockets and yoke should make my but look rounder.

I flared the legs out starting slightly above my knees. As for the flare, I didn’t want to go too wide since the wider the leg, the more dirt and dust you brush up from the streets.

Fitting jeans made from non stretch denim for ladies is a bit harder than fitting stretch denim jeans. You have to keep in mind that 100% cotton denim has not the give stretch denim has, and leave some room so one can still walk and sit in them when they are slim fitted around thigh and seat area.

For top stitching I used the traditional dark yellow jean thread. Bar tacks are made with regular No100 thread (to avoid bulk) in the same shade as the top stitching thread. On back pockets and belt loops I added an additional row of top stitching in navy blue which I made using my old Brother’s seam No2 - triple stretch stitch. I just really like how the seam looks used as top stitching. On the front legs the crease lines are sewn in - just a design detail I personally really really like.

Back yoke and crotch are joined by flat-felled seams, using my own method. For front crotch I used a technique seen in this video. I attached all my zipper fly pieces and then made the front crotch seam, which in my opinion, was easier than some other techniques I’ve seen around the web.

I did ran into some difficulties with rivets, which kept breaking because the nails were too long. So I used Taylor Tailor’s method of adding bulk. Also trying to find buttons and rivets that match was a bit harder than I would have liked, so last week I went for a day trip in Tallinn and bought A LOT of rivets and buttons that actually match!

My "jeans" box :)

All in all, this project was great success and the best jean making expirence I've had in years!

To vote in PatternReview's 2013 Jean contest, go HERE.

Kui ma ennast PatternReview.com’i 2013 Teksapükste võistlusele kirja panin, kulus mul umbes täpselt 20 sekundit otsustamaks, milliseid teksaseid õmmelda. Mulle on alati meeldinud 70nendate mood, eriti just alt laienevad teksad ja püksid. Otsus tehtud, tegin kerge kanga shopingu ning ostsin 100% puuvillase eelpestud tumesinise teksa kanga.

Lõike konstrueerisin ise, mugandades enda pükste põhilõiget. Esimese maketi jaoks visandasin vaid uued sääred ning istmiku õmbluse. Taga passe, taskud ning uue vöö kõrguse märkisin maketile proovis. Tegin ka igaks juhuks teise maketi, nüüd juba lõpliku lõike järgi, veendumaks, et kõik märgitud parandused ja uuendused ikka sobivad.

Kuna minu keha on suhteliselt sirge, üritasin taskute ja taga passega luua illusiooni laiematest puusadest ja ümaramast tagumikust. 

Mis puutub allääre laiusesse, siis ei tahtnud ma väga laikas neid ajada; mida laiem säär seda rohkem tolmu ja mustust need tänavatelt üles keerutavad. 

100% puuvillaseid teksaseid on natukese raskem istuma saada kui stretch teksaseid, kuna kangas ei veni nii palju või siis ei veni pea-aegu üldse. Seega peab jätma natukese ruumi kintsu ja istmiku piirkonda käimiseks ja istumiseks. 

Kaunistusõmbluste tegemiseks kasutasin klassikalist kollast teksa niiti, mille ostsin Kangadžunglist. Kinnituslukkude õmblemiskes kasutasin täiesti tavalist õmblusniiti samas toonis teksa niidiga. Tagataskule ja vööaasadele õmblesin ühe rea kaunistus õmblust tavalise tumesinise niidiga kasutades oma vana hea Brotheri õmblusmasina No2 õmblust (tugevdusõmblus). Säärte esiosadel õmblesin viigijooned sisse, kuna mulle lihtsalt väga väga meeldib see disaini element. 

Tagapasse ja istmiku õmbluse ühendasin, kasutades seda meetodit siin. Esikinnise ja istmiku õmbluse tegin sarnaselt meetodile selles videos - ühendasin esmalt kõik esikinnise detailid ja lukku, ning seejärel õmblesin esipooled üksteise peale.

Pika otsimise peale õnnestus mul lõpuks leida Pärnust needid, mis sobisid kokku nööbiga. Kahjuks tekkis juba esimestel needi kinnitus katsetustel probleem - needid purunesid kuna tagused olid liiga pikkad. Internet on üks imeline avarus kust leiab lahendused KÕIKIDELE probleemidele! Mina leidsin selle Tailor Taylori'i  "meetodi" ja nii saigi liiga pika taguse probleem lahendatud!
Kuna kokkusobivate neetide-nööpide leidmine oli tülikas tegevus, käisin Tallinna Karnaluksis ja varusin neid kohe terve karbi jagu. Ega need teksad viimaseks ei jää!