On my dress form - wool coat, after the first fitting

In the first fitting, the coat is of course put on; closure is pinned shut, matching front centers and waist line markings.

Then:

• shoulder pads or fillers are put in, pinned if necessary;
• balance of the coat is checked. Meaning, the coat should hang on the body so, that the waistline markings are parallel to the horizon; the side seams should be vertically under 90 degree angle with horizon;
• coat is then pinned in where needed on the main body portion;
• neckline and armhole are marked; pocket opening and buttonhole placements for bound buttonholes are marked;
• sleeve is pinned to the now marked armhole, checking the width and length;
• trial collar is pinned to the neckline, collar shape is finalized;
  

After the first fitting

After the first fitting the coat is taken apart, all the necessary alterations are marked on both sides then sewn. Pockets and bound buttonholes get made; stay-tape is sewn to the front edge; facings are sewn on. Lining is cut and assembled. Then shoulder and side seams are sewn and the collar is put on. Sleeves are finished and pressed; tacked to the armhole. Lining is sewn to the facings and back neckline. Shoulder pads or fillers are tacked in place. Now the coat is ready for it's second fitting :)

See, sewing a coat IS EASY!

Ok, I did left out a ton of teeny tiny important details ;)

Custom made shoulder pads before pressing - shaped while padstitching all the layers together

A note on making your own shoulder pads - DO NOT USE GLUE! Just, don't. Ever watched Project Runway? Ever noticed Tim Gun's face when someone admits to using glue outside of "non conventional material" challenge? Yup, that's my face too, when people use glue when they should be using stitches!