Bra making and all the funs

It all started last year in June with Watson. Sewing a Watson was a lot like getting high. Sometimes it turned out great, sometimes...meh.
For a week last summer it was "a Watson a day". I could not stop. That's how addicting bra making was. 

Not all was great success.

Nude-black Watson: cut and sew foam cups, black power net wings and elastics. All is good, except - I applied the under bust elastic wrong side up, so it scratches.

Black mesh Watson with red accents - managed to insert cups at a different angle. Somehow the band turned out to big.

Pale pink Watson - good for sleeping.

May  all the dismantled Watsons rest in peace.

And then there were some, to be exact.

I actually pulled up my Tshirt in public to show Hel what I've made.

This is GREAT! The cups fit perfect, the band fits perfect. It does not itch or scratch. It's lace lined with black medium weight mesh. All the notions were sourced locally, so I have no idea what's the real purpose of that mesh. I actually like the fit I achieved here with the stretch on the cradle. I think it's far better for the longline Watson than the non-stretch cradle.

Fast forward to July 2017 I was itching to make some more. Yup I took a year long break after that lilac wonder.

This black mesh longline Watson has cut and sew foam cups and wire channeling sewn in for extra support.
I made two mistakes here. One - I used a non stretch cradle lining (not so comfy) and two - the cups could have a better fit, to be honest. 


Look at that FOE application!

To be honest, I've never understood the fascination with FOE in bra making. It's not that easy to sew on a domestic sewing!
I decided to press the FOE in half and sew it in place with just one stitch line, instead of two, as many tutorials online suggest.

And then I decided I was ready to move on to underwired bras. 

I opted for Merckwaerdigh's Balcony Bra. This pattern is drafted for B cups and uses sister sizing for other cup sizes.

Oh boy. First, lets talk about breast shapes. Do you know yours?
I'm conical and wide set. I know how it sounds but, it's true. My breasts are fuller at the bottom. So when I was measuring my self for the pattern, the difference between my under bust and full bust didn't even put me on the size chart.
The logical conclusion was to cut the smallest cup and fit it, and go from there.
Nope, I'm definitely bigger than 75A. (that's Metric, y'all) So, I scrapped the way too small bra and cut a bigger cup - 75B this time. And that was a bit big.
That was when I started to get really frustrated. My dream seemed to be unreachable. So I walked away for a while.
And I read. I read all I could find online about bra fitting. And then I realized, I had been going about it all wrong.

Step one - find an underwire that fits! The underwire should rest comfortably against the edges of your breast. Turns out I need a 36 wire! That also explains why many RTW bras do not fit me properly. I need a longer underwire but a smaller cup.
Step two - fit the band! This part is def the easiest bit. But it also can go very wrong. The bridge must be spot on!
Step three - fit the cup! A sewing tip - assemble the cup, zigzag the outer edge, push the underwire trough under the zigzag stitches and hold the cup over your breast. It won't be the most accurate, but it will def save you some time.
Step four - assemble the bra and wear for a day! This would be the ultimate fit test. My Balcony bra, even tho very lovely, isn't comfy. The underwires poke me and the bridge is a bit wide at the bottom for me.
Step five - start all over, yet again!*

please note that I am in no way an expert on bra fitting. What worked for me, might not work for you.

Also, don't do drugs.

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